Wednesday, February 27, 2013

One Year.

One year ago today I stepped off a plane in Vienna with my family and absurd amounts of luggage ready to begin this new adventure.  A year always seems like a weird measure to me, making this span seem both long and short at the same time.  Without trying to get Seasons of Love stuck in everyone's head...how do you measure a year? One of my challenges for myself when I knew I was moving to Austria was to be better about documenting things, through pictures and words, in order to help better capture these events as they happen and not rely solely on a fuzzy memory later.  As I was anticipating this anniversary, I went back through my year of pictures and blog entries, and I am so so glad that I have these records of not only the fantastic trips and special places, but also of more normal life. 


spring and summer in Vienna

Seasons do help to mark the time, some of my first photos of Vienna are of the Easter Markets and the flowers, and while we're still pretty steeped in winter around here at the moment, the Easter Markets are rapidly approaching on the calendar.  I'm so thankful that I wasn't only here for one year, so that while I look back on the wonderful activities warm weather brings, I now have those to look forward to in the coming months. 


fall and winter in Vienna

I realize I say this a lot, but Vienna is really a magnificent city.  It has such a quiet elegance about it, so rich in culture and traditions, that still catches me off guard on a regular basis.  As with New York in some ways, I am thankful to be even the smallest part of the history of this grand city.  I'm not sure when or where it happened exactly, but somewhere along the way Vienna really does feel like home now.  I realize that's a gradual process, so probably I'll look back on this later and laugh at myself, but it really does.  I'm not sure I thought I would really get to that point, where this no longer feels like an extended vacation, but somehow despite the different language and food and culture, there is also a sense of belonging (not to say I feel Austrian...that would still be a long way to go...).


Obviously I came here for school, and school is fantastic.  I have really enjoyed all of my classes, even all the readings and frustrating papers and projects.  I have learned so much, not only about sustainability but also about how people from all different nationalities can discuss and work together and really benefit from these differing backgrounds and worldviews.


This year has also brought the opportunity to travel to some really awesome places: England, Slovakia, Slovenia, Croatia, Germany, Czech Republic, and much of Austria.  It is different than if I were just studying abroad here, I don't go out of town every weekend, I don't feel a huge need to rush around and check places off my to-see list.  While I love to travel and am looking forward to doing much more of it, I also enjoy how normal life in Vienna is, brunching with friends, running errands on a Saturday, and I try to keep some balance of those two. 



This past summer was also awesome.  Being back home was great and relaxing, spending lots of time with friends and family, traveling around the northeast a bit.  Plus then a bit of Austria came to me and I got to show them around NYC which was fantastic.  It was a bit weird being home though, even after just a few months I already felt like I had a real life in Vienna, and being back home it was easy to step back into "real life" there too.  It's weird having two places separated by an ocean that can feel this way at the exact same time.  


Really though, this year wouldn't have been the same without the people here.  Vienna is somewhat of a transitory city, people come to study, or to work at an international organization, and this is just their home for a year or two.  Some friends have already gone, that I had the pleasure of overlapping with for a few months, and now we're keeping in touch by email from all corners of the world.  Some friends are just arriving, only having begun their time here, asking me for tips and suggestions about things now that I'm a more seasoned resident.  And thankfully there are also some who were here long before me and have no immediate plans to leave.  All the trips, dinners, walks, coffees, glasses of wine, and lots and lots of laughter are made so much richer by these wonderful friends.  

I think two of my most commonly asked questions are "How did you end up here?" and "Are you planning to stay after graduation?" and I never have very clear answers to either of those.  "Graduate school" is not really a valid answer for the first question either, since people are quick to point out that there is also education in the US.  Truthfully I don't know how I ended up here.  I mean, I can run through a list of things I did in order to physically come here, but as horribly cheesy and weird as it sounds, I just feel like this is where I'm supposed to be.  In this season, for this time, I get to live in Austria, and it feels exactly right.  The answer to the second question is equally as difficult to answer.  As much as I would like to weigh out my pros and cons to leaving after graduation vs. staying (and trust me I've tried), currently it just comes down to a "we'll see".  

Thankfully I have another year to figure that out :) 

Sunday, February 24, 2013

Snowy Saturday

Once again, it had been snowing off and on for a few days without really doing much of any real accumulating, and then all of the sudden between Friday night and Saturday morning we have 6 inches of fresh snow.  My friend Jelena and I had planned to go exploring a bit on Saturday, so thankfully the snow just added to the scenery without messing up our plans.  



all good Saturdays begin with a bit of brunch...this time at a new (to us) cafe/patisserie...very yummy, and super cute...definitely going back. 

A few weeks ago we popped in to the Austrian National Library that is part of the Hofburg palace complex downtown, and decided we needed to go back sometime when we had time to pay the entrance fee and actually look around a while in the State Hall...Saturday was the day!



This part of the Library was built by Charles the 6th between 1723 and 1726 as his Court Library. 


The walls are lined with HUGE books.  It's hard to see scale here, but the books on the top shelf that look tiny are really "normal size".  This room holds 200,000 books printed between 1501 and 1850. 

A statue of Charles VI as "Hercules Musarum" 

Impressive marble guardians of books

These books are GIANT, they don't even fit on the huge shelves.


Spiral staircase up to the second floor

This door leads to a little storage room behind, and is not a miniature door...perhaps this helps a bit with scale.

There are several globes around the room, this one is from 1693 and was owned by Maria Theresia's husband, but has been on display in this room since the mid-18th century.


The fresco on the ceiling 

There are also several cases with extraordinary documents on display.  This is a segment of a Roman road map from the 12th century.

A botanical and pharmaceutical reference book from about 500 AD, which was restored in 1405

Very scholarly looking entrance to the State Hall. 

Wandering around town enjoying the snow...


Also. These signs are to indicate where there might be a "roof avalanche" (pretty much every street in the first district), and they aren't joking.  Yesterday the temperature was hovering just about at freezing, and this is pretty wet, heavy snow...so it was falling off buildings in giant chunks.  You'd hear this horrible crashing noise and everyone would look around to see what had just fallen.  We couldn't decide which was more dangerous, walking in the middle of the street dodging cars, or walking on sidewalks dodging avalanches.  Yikes.

So so beautiful though.  I do love this city in the snow.


I'm hoping for a few more fun activities around town and places close-by during these next couple weeks of break.  So far it's mostly been relaxing and catching up with friends I hadn't seen in a while, but there are still some more things on my to do list before this next semester starts!

Monday, February 11, 2013

Ski Trip - Kaprun

The more I see of this country the more I love it.  Vienna has a sweeping imperial grace about it, with its architecture and traditions that makes you sometimes seem to float through it even as you go about doing everyday things.  The smaller cities and villages have their own unique charms to them, often with mindbogglingly old buildings and beautifully curved cobblestone streets.  But these mountains. They are literally breathtaking, to the point that it is occasionally difficult to focus on skiing because of the majestic panorama in front of you.

So of course, when some friends started talking about a ski trip for a long weekend on our semester break, I was definitely in.  The entire 4 days were like living in the most beautiful postcards, plus we had an awesome time just being on vacation. We went to Kaprun, which is in Salzburg, about 4 and a half hours from Vienna by car.  



The view from our terrace.  We were up almost to the top of the hill so we had a great view and only about a 10 minute walk into town.

We found this lovely cozy area in a hotel downtown, complete with couches and a fireplace and hot chocolate.

There are 3 mountain areas that make up this larger Zell am See/Kaprun area, and one lift ticket is good for all of them, so we decided to start by going up to Kitzsteinhorn which is actually the top of a glacier.  You take several gondolas to get up to the actual skiing area (you can't ski all the way to the bottom). 


A bit cloudy to start...

clouds slowly moving off

insanely beautiful mountain views 



We took the gondola all the way up to the very very top where they have a little museum and viewing platform and everything.



skiing our way back down

The next day we decided to go try Schmittenhöhe, which is slightly lower, but has a bigger skiing area...again waiting and hoping the clouds clear a bit.

Looking down into Zell am See

Very yummy slope-side lunch places serving traditional Austrian food, which is definitely also perfect ski food

mmmm...kaiserschmarrn and glühwein...and a wood burning stove

Looking down towards Kaprun


It wouldn't be a proper Austrian ski vacation without some good après-ski...complete with singing and dancing.

our group!

our view waking up the morning we were leaving...a bit sad not to be skiing on a day with weather like this...so we decided to take the more scenic route home through Salzkammergut


Just a random fortress by the highway...

Our first stop, Bad Ischl

A lovely stroll through town before a quick bite of lunch


A stop at Zauner for some soup and coffee and cake...including the famous Zaunerstollen...delicious.

driving along the lakes and mountains

Our second stop...Linz!



After a nice walk around town it was back to Vienna!  

Such a fantastic trip...I really wish there was a way to completely capture all of these things, but there really isn't, and perhaps that's also ok.  I cannot wait to go back next winter, or hopefully even in other seasons just to enjoy the general splendor of it all while I'm still so close.